Due to the fact that most steel grades are susceptible to corrosion, they begin to rust when in contact with water. It can also happen if the product is placed in a room with high humidity. Of course, the corrosion process can be prevented if the steel surface is wiped dry each time. Preferably, anti-corrosion paint is applied to metal products with a brush or by spraying.
However, this is not a solution to the problem if the design includes threaded connections or moving parts. The best option in such cases would be the burnishing process. Despite the fact that rust does not form on aluminum, judging by the reviews, it happens that the owner wants to blacken this metal. This procedure can also be recommended for this purpose. It is also called blue. But if you stick to technical terminology, then this process is more correctly called oxidation. How to blacken aluminum? What will be needed for this? For information on how to blacken aluminum at home, you will find in this article.
What is the essence of the procedure?
Before you start blackening aluminum at home, you should figure out what is the meaning of this process. According to experts, its essence is to create such conditions in which a film of iron oxide would form on a metal surface. Depending on which method of bluing aluminum was chosen, its thickness can be from 1 to 10 microns. Metal can be affected in three ways. Therefore, the blackening of aluminum at home is thermal, acidic and alkaline. In the first case, the product is heated, and in the other two, it is processed in an appropriate solution. During bluing, the tint colors on the surface will change. The master only needs to decide on the desired color of oxidation and stop the process in time.
About ferric chloride
Judging by the reviews, some home craftsmen etch printed circuit boards and thus obtain aluminum blackening liquid. Further, shiny metal parts are lowered into this mining for a certain time. Those who are interested in how to blacken aluminum at home can be advised not to complicate the process by etching boards, but immediately acquire ferric chloride to make the desired solution. You can work with this method both with aluminum and with duralumin, steel and brass.
Judging by the reviews, aluminum surfaces are best blackened. With duralumin, the situation is somewhat worse. Steel, according to the masters, practically does not blacken. However, they form a specific plaque that can be confused with rust. However, the steel surface is no longer as shiny and looks much better. Brass products after treatment in ferric chloride also do not become black, but acquire a matte reddish tint.
How to burn with ferric chloride? Where to begin?
If aluminum products of small sizes are to be processed, then 15-20 grams of this substance can be limited. Blackening aluminum at home with ferric chloride consists of several stages. First of all, you should prepare everything for work. First, ferric chloride is diluted with water. It is important that the mixture is easy to spread. To make it thick and not spread, you need to take a small amount of water. Next, the solution must be given time to brew. During this time, it is possible to prepare the product itself for bluing: dirt and dust are cleaned from its surface, and then degreased. Judging by the reviews, it is enough to wash it under a tap with soap.
Progress
If the solution is prepared and the aluminum surface is cleaned, you can proceed directly to bluing. You will have to work with a stick with cotton wool wound at one end.
Scoop the mixture with this stick and apply to the desired area. At the same time, you need to make sure that it does not spread, but remains in place. After the product should be left for a while, do not interfere with the chemical reaction. To make it flow faster, experts recommend diluting iron chloride with warm water. According to home craftsmen, aluminum will turn black in 10 minutes. Dural products will have to burn longer - the chemical reaction will take half an hour.
Final stage
As a result of bluing with ferric chloride, the surface should turn out to be dark gray with a matte tint. Despite the fact that blued aluminum no longer gives glare, it may happen that the color itself does not suit the master. In this case, the part is washed and the procedure is repeated again. You can try to hold the solution longer. At the end, the product is washed again in water and dried.
How to blacken with olive oil and egg white?
The essence of this method is as follows. First, the aluminum part is carefully polished with fine-grained sandpaper. Then it is degreased in a soda solution. Then olive oil is applied to the product and heated with an alcohol lamp. It is very important that the flame does not give soot. Heat treatment should be carried out until a black color appears on the surface. During this time, the oil will burn out and it will have to be reapplied. According to experts, the part will have to be smeared often. After the surface is cooled and carefully wiped. The method using an egg practically does not differ from this procedure. The only difference is that it is not olive oil that should be applied to the surface, but beaten egg white. It is desirable that before bluing, he insisted in a warm place for a couple of days. When it dries enough on the part, it begins to heat up to red. At the end, the protein should fall behind, and the aluminum underneath will turn black.
About copper plating
A galvanic method is provided for painting the surface. Due to the copper layer, the outer product will turn out to be more attractive. This explains why copper plating is predominantly used in design projects. In addition, the copper layer provides the metal with high electrical conductivity. Copper plating can be the main process, the task of which is to create a surface layer. Also, this galvanic method is used as an intermediate operation when it is required to apply another metal layer to the surface. For example, if you need to perform silver, chrome and nickel plating.
What will be needed for work?
According to the masters, it is possible to blacken aluminum in this way at home. However, first you need to acquire the necessary equipment and materials. First of all, prepare a source of electric current. For this purpose, a KBS-L battery, rated at 4.5 volts, is quite suitable. Some craftsmen recommend 9-volt Krona batteries. You can also use a car battery or a low power 12 volt rectifier.
To be able to regulate and smoothly stop the process, you need a rheostat. The electrolyte solution will be contained in a neutral glass container or a wide plastic vessel. It will be possible to bring current to the solution through the anodes.
How to prepare a solution?
For high-quality electroplating, you need to stock up on the following chemicals:
- Copper vitriol. 20 will be enough.
- Hydrochloric or sulfuric acid (2-3 ml).
To prepare an electrolyte solution, these substances are dissolved in distilled water. Experts advise using at least 1 liter. Read more about how to blacken aluminum with copper sulphate at home - further.
Process description
Judging by the reviews, the procedure will pass without problems if you adhere to the following sequence of actions. First of all, the part is cleaned and degreased. Then the product must be lowered into an empty container. Now you can connect the negative terminal to the aluminum. An electrolyte solution is prepared in a separate container. Next, insulation is removed from one end of the stranded copper wire. You should get something like a brush.
The other end of the wire is connected to the positive terminal. The blackening procedure consists in the fact that the brush is moistened in the prepared solution, and without touching the workpiece, it is carried out over its surface. At the end, the aluminum product is washed and dried.
Perhaps, each house will certainly have some little thing or aluminum product that has already lost its presentable appearance, but you would very much like to restore their former beauty with an invariably attractive look of antique antiquity. How then to be? We suggest that you do aluminum patination at home on your own, without resorting to professional help from specialists. Let's look at this process in more detail so that you clearly understand what you have to do.
And is it difficult?
Most often, the “aging” of aluminum products is practically no more difficult, and sometimes even no easier, than other metals. And all just because aluminum perfectly accepts all kinds of color tones during electrochemical oxidation, or, in other words, anodizing. As a result, a special film is formed on the surface of such a product, which prevents the appearance of metal corrosion, thereby giving an aesthetic charm to the finished product.
If you consider this method too complicated for you, then you can use simpler ones, for example, the most ordinary drawing ink, alcohol-based black varnish, or finely crushed graphite and other specialized coloring agents. After such methods, it is only necessary to wipe the “aged” trinket with kerosene.
A simple patination method
After reading all the above methods, you still could not choose - what is the best way for you to "age" your new aluminum product, then rather read this simple method that allows you to patinate aluminum at home, using simple improvised tools that cost literally a penny .
To do this, you will need to thoroughly wipe the finished aluminum thing with a small piece of cloth soaked in acetone to remove all possible “greasy” stains or ingrained dirt that are on the surface. After everything is cleaned and dried well, you will definitely need to moisten the product with some kind of solvent, for example, White Spirit or some other that you can find at home, or buy at a hardware store. Then burn the workpiece with a blowtorch.
But, remember! The more solvent you use directly on the product itself, the darker the patina will subsequently be, resulting from its combustion on the surface under the influence of a blowtorch. If you want to get barely noticeable traces of darkening, then it is best to apply the solvent with a brush with coarse bristles.
And in order to get a very dark shade, the product must be placed completely directly into the solvent. At the same time, in convex places, it will be necessary to remove its excess so that small accumulations of the substance remain in the recesses. Working in this way, the product is set in a horizontal position so that the solvent does not flow where it is not needed. The blowtorch will need to be fired for several minutes, moving the fire evenly so that there is no excessive overheating, from which your aluminum product can simply melt.
After the product has completely cooled down, you will also need to carefully lighten its convex parts. To do this, you will need to wipe them with a cotton pad dipped in oil to lubricate the sewing machine, to which the smallest shavings of abrasive powder were added. Then wipe dry with a clean, dry cloth to remove all residue from the abrasive. The type and duration of the effect of such a method, which allows patination of aluminum at home, is no worse than from chemical methods. And most importantly, much safer - you will not suffer from acid.
Summing up
Aluminum is a metal of remarkable plastic qualities, which is very convenient to use in creating various decorative parts of the interior. But sometimes you want to replace the novelty of such products with an eye-pleasing "old". And how to do this, we learned from this article - aluminum patination at home.
denzed1 07-09-2011 08:50
Greetings to the members of the forum, I don’t know if this topic was raised, but I wanted to know if it was possible to bring aluminum into the house. conditions?
PPU 07-09-2011 14:11
Try Aluminum Black or Aluminox
shooler 26-10-2011 10:50
I'm also wondering if anyone tried to blacken the MP-153 box with this composition: Aluminum Black (the box seems to include aluminum), is it worth taking this bluing?
Dieter 26-10-2011 21:11
He blew her duralumin, the effect, even after careful degreasing, is bad, everything is stained, dirty and quickly erased. Everything is solved by sanding the surface and immediately applying a funnel (until oxidation begins). Rub thoroughly in several layers, then wipe with oil. It turns out evenly, it is not erased so quickly, but the coating is afraid of scratches.
2leek 26-10-2011 21:31
I once read about this method:
take an egg white, let it stand for a day, then apply it to an aluminum part and let it dry. Then heat the part red hot. After cleaning, the part will turn black.
I have not tried it myself, I will not say how real the method is.
Bearded 27-10-2011 18:59
quote: Then heat the part red hot.
This will not work with aluminum parts ... It will simply melt ... and you will not keep track of the moment when it starts to do this ....
shooler 31-10-2011 21:16
topic of the AP, once again - who dropped the MP-153 box with this composition?
drMoro 01-11-2011 02:01
dropped the aluminum part into the pan with "Whiteness" means added by the hostess for washing.
took it out after 10 minutes .. it is black, as if from Africa.
the coating does not wear off.
7ergey 01-11-2011 09:42
quote: Originally posted by drMoro: I took it out for 10 minutes .. it is black, as if from Africa.The point is, rather, not in the bleach, but in the sweatpants that were in the pan
MAXHO 01-11-2011 17:35
Here is a man who dropped a luminium pistol with a fully written recipe and photos:
shooler 13-11-2011 18:13
don't disappear topic, ap ap ap
akira82 14-11-2011 15:06
I would, on the contrary, peel off an aluminum bowler hat. it is all black, covered in soot after 3 years of use on fires. anything can be washed, but it is still blued on the outside.
shooler 15-11-2011 16:20
akira82, well then you need to create a topic "HOW TO REPAIR THE BOWL")))))
drMoro 15-11-2011 19:22
quote: The point is, rather, not in the bleach, but in the sweatpants that were in the pan
try at the beginning then you will be ironic
7ergey 15-11-2011 20:01
drMoro As you say. Need data. Brand of "whiteness" (ours or import), clean or in solution, heated or room. We know the time.
------------------
Doubt is the enemy of experiment!
drMoro 16-11-2011 20:23
quote: drMoroAs you say. Need data. Brand of "whiteness" (ours or import), clean or in solution, heated or room. We know the time.
take the simplest one. fatherland production. glass or stainless steel container. aluminum part. room temperature. Of course, you need to try on something that is not necessary.
smlskijj 13-12-2011 13:20
very interesting thread!
shooler 15-12-2011 18:36
thomas60 16-12-2011 12:38
Not every aluminum turns white. One sample held - black. And the other day lay and at least dick in the village
zapchem 17-12-2011 22:24
quote: Originally posted by thomas60:
Not every aluminum turns white. One sample held - black. And the other day lay and at least dick in the village
Yes sir. for example, an aluminum basin for washing clothes turned black after adding ammonia water to soaked clothes. but the tube made of aluminum alloy ad-31 does not turn black like that. For aluminum, you need either anodizing or chemical zinc plating, followed by blackening of galvanized steel.
The essence of the anodizing process is the build-up of an oxide coating, which on aluminum and its alloys performs a protective function from environmental influences. Another name is anodic oxidation. In addition, oxidation is used to improve the aesthetic appearance of products.
Surface defects are eliminated - small scratches, small chips. It is possible to imitate precious metal plating or increase adhesive properties. The coating can be applied not only in production, but also at home.
Anodizing aluminum at home is very popular with home craftsmen. In products subjected to anodic oxidation, the resistance of the protective coating increases.
General information about anodizing technology
Aluminum anodizing technology is similar to electroplating. The sedimentation of solution oxide ions on the workpiece occurs in a liquid electrolyte at high or low temperatures. The use of a heated solution is possible in industrial installations, where there is the possibility of careful control and regulation of voltage and current in automatic mode.
At home, they usually use the cold method. This method is quite simple, does not require constant monitoring, and equipment and consumables are available. To prepare the solution, you can use the electrolyte used in lead car batteries. It is sold in every auto shop.
The high strength of the protective oxide film depends on its thickness, which is obtained at home by processing in a cold solution. The build-up is carried out by step regulation of the operating current.
Capacities are required for the process. Tanks for anodizing should correspond to the dimensions of the parts, be a little larger. In this connection, they usually use several baths. The material of the containers is aluminium. But if the products are small, then plastic containers are suitable. Only on the bottom and along the walls it is necessary to lay aluminum sheets. This is necessary to create a current of uniform density throughout the volume.
The electrolyte needs to be isolated from external heat. When heated, it will have to be changed. To exclude heating, the containers are covered with a layer of thermal insulation from the outside. It can be pasted over with foam plastic up to 50 mm thick or, by placing it in a box, fill the free space with mounting foam.
A sulfuric acid solution is obtained by diluting the electrolyte for car batteries with distilled water in proportions one to one. By purchasing a canister with a capacity of 5 liters, you can get 10 liters of solution.
Mixing, when water is added to the acid, is accompanied by copious heat, and it literally boils splashing. Therefore, for safety reasons, sulfuric acid is poured into a container of water.
Before anodizing aluminum, it is subjected to chemical preparation. Chemical preparation is a degreasing process. In industrial conditions, treatment is carried out with caustic soda or potassium. But at home it is better to use laundry soap. With a toothbrush and soapy water, contaminants are well removed from the surface. After that, the blanks are first washed with warm water, and then with cold water.
An alternative to laundry soap is laundry detergent. After dissolving it in a closed plastic container and placing the parts to be processed there, it is necessary to shake vigorously. Then the parts are washed and dried with a stream of hot air. The active oxygen contained in the washing powder protects fat-free items, even when handled with bare hands.
Electrolyte preparation
Acid solutions are considered unsafe reagents, therefore, to anodize aluminum at home, they resort to a different type of solution. For its preparation, salt and soda are used, which are always at hand.
To prepare the electrolyte, two plastic containers are taken. Salt and soda compositions are introduced into them, observing the proportion: 9 servings of distilled water per serving of salt or soda.
After the components are dissolved, the solution is aged in order to settle the undissolved particles to the bottom. When pouring into a container for anodizing, it must be filtered.
Aluminum anodizing methods
Several methods have been developed for processing aluminum alloys, but the chemical method in an electrolyte medium has found wide application. To obtain a solution, acids are used:
- sulfuric;
- chrome;
- oxalic;
- sulfosalicylic.
To give additional properties, salts or organic acids are added to the solution. At home, sulfuric acid is mainly used, but when processing parts of complex configuration, it is preferable to use chromic acid.
The process takes place at temperatures from 0°C to 50°C. At low temperatures, a hard coating forms on the aluminum surface. With increasing temperature, the process proceeds much faster, but the coating has a high softness and porosity.
In addition to the chemical method, in some cases the following aluminum anodizing methods are used:
- microarc;
- color:
- adsorption;
- dipping into the electrolyte;
- dipping into a dye solution;
- electroplating;
- interference;
- integral.
Warm anodizing
The warm anodizing method is used to obtain a base for painting. The coating is porous, but due to this it has high adhesion. Epoxy paint applied on top will reliably protect aluminum from external influences.
The disadvantage is the low mechanical strength and corrosion resistance of the coating. It is destroyed upon contact with sea water and active metals. This method can be done at home.
The process proceeds at room temperature or higher (not more than 50°C). After degreasing, the workpieces are mounted on a suspension that holds them in an electrolyte solution.
Anodizing continues until a milky coating appears on the surface. After removing the stress, the workpieces are washed in cold water. The parts are then painted. They are dyed by placing them in a container with hot dye. After that, the result is fixed for 1 hour.
cold technology
To anodize aluminum, you need:
- power supply 12 V (battery, stabilizer);
- aluminum wires;
- rheostat;
- ammeter;
- solution containers.
Cold technology is different in that the growth of the anodized coating on the metal side proceeds at a faster rate than its dissolution on the outside.
First, the preparatory work described above is carried out. Then the details must be fixed. It should not be forgotten that a film does not form under the fastener. And the suspended workpieces, when lowered into the container, should not touch the walls and bottom.
The anode is connected to the parts from the power source, respectively, the cathode is connected to the capacitance. The current density is selected within 1.6-4 A/dm2. Recommended values are 2-2.2 A/dm2. At small values, the process will proceed more slowly, and at large values, a breakdown of the circuit may occur and the coating will begin to break down.
The duration of anodizing with a cold method is about half an hour for small elements. For large parts, the duration can be 60-90 minutes. The end of the process is indicated by a changed color on the surface of the aluminum product. After disconnecting the wires, the part is washed.
Consolidation of the result
The quality of aluminum anodizing depends on the final stage - fixing the coating. To do this, after coating and washing, the parts are placed for a quarter of an hour in a solution of manganese. After excavation, it is necessary to rinse the parts under hot and cold water to remove the remaining solution from the pores.
Before staining, it is necessary to plug the microscopic pores on the film. Why products are boiled in distilled water for 30-40 minutes.
zloyqadrat 04-10-2010 20:00
came across an easy way to burnish aluminum
http://rekomstroy.ru/uslugi/decorativnoe_pocritie_metallov.html
"Black stain for aluminum
.
The surface of an aluminum object is first polished with the finest powder of emery, then lubricated with olive oil and heated, with frequent lubrication with this oil, over an alcohol lamp until the olive oil turns black. After that, the heating is stopped and after the object has cooled, the oil is wiped off with a rag.
Anyone tried it like this?
Gaydamak 04-10-2010 21:55
And refined or not? What about sunflowers? And if not an alcohol lamp, but a gas burner?
Stop163 04-10-2010 22:18
I will mark myself. interested
Alex*D 04-10-2010 22:42
Look at the bottom of the pan...
Oil burns - coal remains ....
Demonos 04-10-2010 23:02
Olive oil is not a pickle, more of a condiment.
I have heard many times about the burnishing of heated steel in oil. It never worked out. And I have never seen a high-quality coating. On the other hand, aluminum, except for anodizing, cannot be coated with anything of high quality. Perhaps it will roll.
docentus 05-10-2010 12:07
Well...
What kind of aluminum parts do we have there in the pneumatic industry?
Boxes, mods, little things, this is from what I know.
But hardly anyone wants to cover a box, or something similar, with such a coating. I definitely wouldn't, it looks more like smoking, with a corresponding shitty appearance.
Convince me, give pictures of high-quality blackened aluminum parts filled with burnt oil. Really want to.
docentus 05-10-2010 12:11
Nik G 05-10-2010 03:48
For aluminum, I saw a primer in a spray can in an auto shop. You can already paint over it. This is according to the seller.
Maloros 05-10-2010 10:28
quote: over an alcohol lamp until the olive oil turns black.
In our distant youth, at the aviation technical school, we were taught how to anneal
D-16 in order for it to become elastic and it could be deformed mechanically and without cracks. It is necessary to rub the part with laundry soap and warm it up until it (soap) turns black. Let cool. The metal becomes elastic - it bends like pure aluminum. Elastic properties are restored as a result of aging after a few days. I mean, apparently the blackening of olive oil can also lead to a temporary loss of strength. This must be borne in mind.
I once read about the blackening of aluminum alloys that it can be oxidized in ferric chloride (after its use, in the manufacture of printed circuit boards) until a dense gray film appears, then rubbing with olive oil and heating to blackening according to the technology described in the top. But he personally did not use this technology.
Basil_84 05-10-2010 11:05
Household rubbed with soap rather to determine the temperature.
By the fact that even without soap a vacation is made.
http://sovet.bos.ru/html/oadiedaneaij_iadaaioea_iaoaeei.html
Maloros 05-10-2010 11:20
quote: Household rubbed with soap rather to determine the temperature.
Quite right. But when repairing combat damage to an aircraft in an airfield, there is nothing to measure the temperature with and there is no time to look for a device. And this is a simple and proven experience of determining the temperature of the tempering of duralumin.
And your link with great pleasure sent to favorites. Thank you.
P_L_Z 05-10-2010 11:28
intrigued
Fake 05-10-2010 12:51
I did something similar.
Tube modera ink.
The pipe from Leroy 25x1.5 has already been somehow processed on the outside, a matte surface.
Rubbed with a thin layer of oil, just to shine. Then he carefully smoked over the candle. The final result depends on the quality of this smoking. You can not allow "fringe". After I smoked the entire pipe, I heated it on gas until the oil burned out. Then again rubbing with oil and smoking. So three times.
Then I rubbed it with oil and let it cool. Then washed under the tap with soap and used.
The coating itself does not peel off, but is also scraped off by hard objects.
It was not possible to cover the chiseled traffic jams in this way. But there and the butt was from under the cutter. I didn't bother with sanding. Left the cork white.
Threat Oil took the first available. It turned out to be olive. Haven't tested with sunflower.
Kainyn 05-10-2010 13:05
funny topic.
black - from charring.
Fake 05-10-2010 15:03
funny topic.in fact, heated oil is drying oil.
black - from charring.analogue - black oil paint on natural drying oil with high-temperature drying.
In my case, soot gave the answer. The oil was only as a binder.
What happens to oil when heated above the temperature of e ... "smoking" is a mystery to me. It becomes something like varnish.
Tried kneading soot in the same oil. It was not possible to apply a thin layer evenly.
Kainyn 05-10-2010 15:14
quote: Originally posted by Fake:this is oil paint - drying oil (read - oil) with pigment :-)
In my case, soot gave the answer. The oil was only as a binder..
madmax 05-10-2010 20:23
quote:
Demonos posted on 4-10-2010 23:02 I have heard many times about bluing hot steel in oil. It never worked out.
Steel can be burnished in this way, but only non-critical parts!
The bottom line is heating the steel to the burnout temperature of the oil. We warm the piece of iron and rub it with an oiled rag. There is a lot of smoke, however, and it stinks of burnt oil, but if you really need it and there is nothing else at hand - that's it. The cover is quite durable.
Sory that's off topic.
Demonos 05-10-2010 20:26
So it's not a weed. That's paint. It was a sinful thing that I thought that the oil could release some kind of acid, or salt, which gives black oxide with aluminum.
RICCI 05-10-2010 20:54
The alcohol lamp does not smoke, for any you will not know until you try.
RICCI 06-10-2010 08:47
Some kind of dye may be produced in red-hot oil, which penetrates into the luminum.
alter 06-10-2010 11:13
I also tried it - it is not suitable for frequent hand-waving.
There is a way with * gun varnish *. I didn’t try ischo myself, but if anyone does it will be the first explorer
The recipe is BF-2 (or BF-4) glue. Nigrozin. Alcohol. Alcohol is not inside.
The components are mixed and applied to the product and FSU aluminum or steel. It is baked in the oven, I don’t know how long, how many layers, too, but for glue like BF, an hour is enough.
Or in another way - bakelite varnish (a component of BF), ballpoint pen paste (nigrosine), alcohol (alcohol).
RICCI 06-10-2010 14:33
Baking probably will not work, heat treatment is contraindicated for parts subject to pressure and wear.
alter 06-10-2010 15:59
quote: Originally posted by RICCI:
heat treatment is contraindicated
100-150 degrees is normal, count the water in the al-met saucepan boiled.
major 0763 06-10-2010 17:45
I have been doing this for a long time - a crow in oil. anyone.
do so - heat up - and into the oil. take it out and heat it with a gas burner until the oil burns out. then again into the oil - 30 times. The coating is strong. removed only with metal.
and here the tramble-aluminum is still soft and scratches easily. nevertheless, the figure eight has been standing for half a year, it’s normal
RICCI 06-10-2010 18:15
That's it, this is a rezik and a box made of duralumin, but to what extent should it be heated? more details please.
US Mergan 06-10-2010 19:23
What sight crowed or what?
major 0763 08-10-2010 04:24
no. only the eight is blued. You probably don't need to heat up the rez.
heated so that the oil began to hiss after dipping. then take it out and heat until the oil burns out. You don't need to heat it up any further - just dip it. at least 30 times.
at first there will be brown stains - then it gets darker and darker.
Demonos 08-10-2010 08:20
Need to try. After soldering aluminum from a fixing copper wire in varnish insulation, brown stripes remained on the muzzle. It sank deep. But he also raised the temperature, let's say, above the combustion temperature of carbon. Focused on the disappearance of soot from the product
Here again I am led to the divinely simple method with fire and oil.
Fake 08-10-2010 09:33
quote: Originally posted by Demonos:
And to evaluate the fact that the oil on aluminum burned out, how? Like "no more smoke"? Aluminum not released?
I followed the smoke. Lumin is most likely released. But I'm a moderator of ink, it's not critical there.
After it has stopped smoking, I do not advise you to heat further - what is stuck will burn out. I did not dip into the oil, but wiped the pipe with a cotton swab dipped in oil.
Fake 09-10-2010 12:17
I tried it now on the duralumin partition of modera. One olive oil is enough. Warmed up on gas. I didn’t dip into the oil, I wiped it with an oiled swab. Thin layer. After the third run, the entire surface is guaranteed to be black. Made five passes.
Noticed a couple of things.
When oiling, do not allow potassium oil to boil on the surface. It turns out a "pimple", which then flies around and exposes the metal. It is necessary to constantly wipe the surface, creating a thin layer that begins to smoke.
It is also not worth overdoing on fire. I warmed it for about five seconds, took it away from the fire - if it smokes, then you heat it further, it stops smoking - oiling.
After the last heating, it is impossible to cool with water - the water will boil and tear off the coating pointwise. Air cooling only.
As mentioned above, the coating is not particularly resistant to mechanical stress, it loses much to the anox in strength, but IMHO it is suitable as a collective farm coating for mock-ups.
Marniftarr 09-10-2010 12:53
Gentlemen, all this is good, but oxides have no strength fur. They are good on a production scale. For your beloved rat, you need high-quality technology.
As a result, the rats acquired this appearance:
First photo in the thread
I have tried this varnish on freshly chemically peeled steel. In general, if anyone has a pulver, a compressor and experience with painting, I highly recommend it. Well, if you can’t get such a varnish, you can use a two-component Duxone car paint. By the way, in the presence of a matte color, this paint can be painted under the powder. It has properties similar to epoxy.
Oxides are unfortunately not stable :-(
Fake 09-10-2010 13:33
Having suffered with oxides, I took ceramic varnish into service.
It is so strong (stronger than ceramics for wear) that it does not peel or polish after 2 days after application. ...
If neither sandpaper nor the edge of a knife takes it, then where do scratches appear on it that self-heal?
And how does he stay on the lumine?
Marniftarr 09-10-2010 13:40
It has scratches from long-term mechanical impact or from very sharp objects. Even so, this is a material of earthly origin :-) But the scratches are then tightened, but not completely. It is impossible to polish such scratches. To polish this varnish after the final polymerization, diamond abrasives and a very powerful tool are used.
If the lacquer layer is thick, then it will hold perfectly on aluminum. If thin, then it will probably break from chips. The lacquer is quite flexible, it is resistant to abrasion but normal to breakage and chipping. Therefore, it is better to apply it on polished surfaces in a thick layer.
If the surface is to be filled, then it must be well sanded with a large sandpaper, apply primer, base (paint itself) and already varnish. I did not primer .. I applied only the base, and then this varnish with a thick layer.
There is still a hemorrhage during its application - any flaw in the painting, whether it be a speck of dust or snot, cannot be fixed .. If something happens, the part is immediately thrown into acetone, all varnish is washed off with the base and painted all over again. It will be impossible to fix something later.. If you don’t wash the sprayer within two hours, you can throw it away.. I was tormented with this varnish. But the result is worth it.
Demonos 10-10-2010 21:59
quote: I've had a hard time with this polish. But the result is worth it.
Here is the devil! Where, for what?! I want it for sure! At least a little!
Marniftarr 11-10-2010 11:57
Unfortunately, not how much :-(The one that my friends gave me for the test will already be over ... They gave 100 grams ... And the toad presses to give 5 rubles for litas .. I myself sit and look for where to dig cheaper and so as not to run with requests and bows to pour a stogram ..
Kainyn 11-10-2010 12:12
quote: Originally posted by Marniftarr:yes, sapphire is especially fragile - the chemical formula is Al2O3 (aluminum oxide).
Gentlemen, all this is good, but oxides have no strength fur.
another thing is that the continuity and thickness of the resulting film (and, accordingly, hardness, wear resistance, etc.) depends on the parameters of the anodizing process :-)
Fake 11-10-2010 13:43
By the way, to the heap. Tried refined sunflower oil. More approaches are required and the coverage is worse, with brown spots.
Motor synthetics only smell strongly and do not give color. True, I tried only 1 time, it stinks very much.
Marniftarr 11-10-2010 23:07
quote: Originally posted by Kainyn:
By the way, during anodic oxidation (anodization) of aluminum, just this very oxide is formed on its surface
Yes it is .. but who will fence galvanized solutions at home to anodize once? And despite the fact that you still can’t get rid of scratches ..?!!?!
Kainyn 11-10-2010 23:24
quote: Originally posted by Marniftarr:you do not distort.
Yes it is .. but who will fence galvanized solutions at home to anodize once? And despite the fact that you still can’t get rid of scratches ..?!!?!
hard anox (this is the term) does not take a regular needle file.
You said - "there is no strength."
now you don’t like to “fence solutions” either.
Marniftarr 15-10-2010 12:28
quote: Originally posted by Kainyn:
and with your varnish, which is also difficult to get, is it easier to paint, or what?
Well, how can I say - it’s not easier anymore .. They don’t give the second 100 grams per sample :-) I will switch to epoxy two-component varnishes ..
quote: Originally posted by Kainyn:
the anox is hard (this is the term) the usual file does not take. You said - "there is no strength"
about anox. Trigger hook. Aluminum. Covered with no paint. looks like a glossy black crust. The manufacturer stated that the coating is anox. Nails do not "scratch" ... Not a polymer to the touch. It doesn't prick.. With a needle file, it grinds without problems.. Is it anox?
Demonos 15-10-2010 12:31
quote: Anox is it?
Ah xs.
alter 15-10-2010 08:47
quote: Originally posted by Marniftarr:
Nails do not "scratch" ... Not a polymer to the touch. It doesn't prick.. With a needle file, it grinds without problems.. Is it anox?
Comes under normal automotive paint type acrylic.
